Friday, July 9, 2010
Gettysburg
Tom says its very Whitty. That is what we call Whitman Students, my Alma Marta. We used to do Renaissance fairs and host dinners in medieval costume. Gettysburg is a civil war encampment this weekend. Women in hoop skirts and children in woolen clothes run by. soldiers and farmers dressed as they would be in 1863 abound. Tents of white canvas cover the fields with Fire pits and cast iron grates in front. Wooden camp chairs and tables are set up in the tents with canvas cots draped in either wool blankets or home made quilts. It is so authentic, you feel like you have been dropped back in time. I felt like I needed to go buy a homespun dress at one of the stalls and cover my exposed legs.
Trevor wanted to buy a coat, but it was $230. I told him he needed to wait until he stopped growing. We bought lots of T shirts. and I begged Tom nicely to do a wet print with me as a family. Its old fashioned tin type photograph with the black curtain and the box. We dressed in costume and had to sit still for 6 seconds while the photographer created the picture on tin. We could have done glass, but the photographer pointed out glass breaks. Tin was wonderful. I looked so homely in a blue plaid dress with my hair pulled back. Riley dressed in a blue uniform and Tom and Trevor chose Gray. $60 later we had a family photo that looked as if we were born before the war and the family was going off to fight.
Getting to Gettysburg was tricky. We left the hotel in the morning after our huge complimentary breakfast. We take a plate up to Tom in the room. Once on the Freeway the map looks as if you can't miss Gettysburg. But we catch an expressway and miss the cross freeway we need to catch. I am not a good navigator, but getting on the expressway and blowing by our exit didn't help. I told Tom if we reached Harrisburg we had gone to far. We were 6 miles from Harrisburg. We stop at a mini mart for directions and get turned around and reach our destination.
The camp is north of the Gettysburg Memorial. We never do get to the Memorial, spending all day living and breathing 1863. We walk through the area where the soldiers " Bivouac", where the soldiers live and sleep. Horses are picketed on strings between the trees, if they are not out being ridden by soldiers on reconnaissance. A widow in black with black lace and hoops watches us pass her tent. It gives me goose bumps. I have a hard time meeting her eyes. Like I am intruding in her grief at the loss of family in the war. Acres of land are covered with these civil war camps.
We talk to a doctor about civil war techniques. He shows us how to remove a bullet, but more likely its an amputation. If you can't get yourself to the doctor in time, the limb would be amputated to prevent Gangrene. The tools were not washed between soldiers. It was an assembly line with one doctor for 1000 soldiers. Initially in the war you could only be treated by your brigade's doctor . If you went to the wrong doctor he would send you to find the one you were supposed to see. That policy changed shortly after Antietam. Piles of limbs sat festering outside the doctor's area. Flies swarmed and the smell would knock you back. Doctor's thought the sign of puss in the wound was a good sign of healing. When they ran out of string they started using horse hair. To make it more pliable the horse hair was boiled. All of a sudden soldiers with horse hair started doing better than the ones using wool. Doctors took note and continued with the horse hair, since it was also easy to come by.
They did have Either and Chloroform when available. They saved that for the amputations. Bullet removal they preferred the patient awake. If you were not awake when you arrived at the doctor's tent you were not treated. They considered unconscious patients not worth their time. The patient couldn't tell them where it hurt and more likely they would die anyway. There was a dieing tree where gut wounds and unconscious soldiers were taken and made as comfortable as possible. I ask about whiskey, the doctor response that they drank that good stuff. Infection? what was infection, puss was healing. It must have smelled like the dump on a hot day.
We watched a motar fire and were amazed at the accuracy. They waited between each shot for the cannon to cool so there wouldn't be an accident. During the war the soldiers would not have that luxury. At 6:00 pm the reenactment of the Brickyard occurred. Tom loved it . We had bleacher seats . I had not realized it would be so far away. It was across the field on another hill. Tom said that was so we got perspective. It looked more fun for the participants than the audience. I loved the camp. Tom loved the reenactment. Soldiers shooting from distances, cannons going off, Calvary horses battling.
I had thought it would be more like a rodeo. It was too far away. Living the day in that encampment was worth the trip. Even the boys got into it. I had to tell them If it didn't fit in the suitcase then they couldn't buy it. No guns!! There were some cool souvenirs. Both boys bought bullets. Riley found a clay bullet. Once the soldiers ran out of lead, bullets were made of clay and baked.
There was no Beer. I did buy Tom a hand wrapped cigar soaked in Rum. Tom drank Root Beer and Sarsaparilla and lemon aide. It had a fair like feeling but there was only food sold that would have been found at the time. No Yakisoba or Giros. Hot dogs, hamburgers, ham, and roast beef were available. I was surprised no apple pies or strawberry shortcake.
We stopped in the town of Gettysburg on our way out after the reenactment. Traffic was heavy so we thought we would wait until it cleared out a little. The center of town is full of brick buildings on a town circle. The David Wills House where Lincoln stayed was open. We toured the house and read the Gettysburg address. I bought the boys ice cream from a shop. We wondered the town for an hour. There were street performers in costume. There were town residents walking in the evening cool in costume. The town was pretty substantial when you think that these buildings were built around 1840.
David Wills had been given the job of setting up the Gettysburg National Cemetery. When Lincoln visited he found that due to rains, the shallow graves were being washed open, and body parts were becoming exposed. These soldiers on both sides that had given their lives, needed more respect than just a shallow dug hole in the ground. People in the city of Gettysburg had even become sick and died from the exposure to the unsanitary conditions, after the three day battle. Thousands of horses had been killed and had to be burned. Bodies were burned in order to hurry up disposal. It was a nightmare for weeks. Then it rained and became a muddy quagmire.
Lincoln's invitation to speak at Gettysburg had been an afterthought. A famous orator of the time was speaking and he took 2 hours for his speech. Lincoln's speech was ten lines. Presidents did not usually leave the capital,. It wasn't safe and traveling was difficult. It could also potentially put you out of touch with people if need arose. Lincoln though had been looking for a win in which to make a speech and infuse new dedication to the cause. Gettysburg was a blow to Lee. It was his final try to invade the North and he had been repulsed. Lincoln chose this battlefield to make one of histories greatest speeches.
You could see his pain and suffering on his face through the photos taken of his years in office. In a few years he had aged dramatically.
It was late by the time we headed back to our hotel. Not getting lost this time. We got a little confused by the freeway exits as Gettysburg is in Pennsylvania and Hagerstown is in Maryland. I went out to the store to get Yogurt and chips and snacks for everyone. Tom had gone for yogurt the night before.
Tomorrow we head to DC and return the car.
Anteitam
McClellan was also reprimanded for not following Lee's army and squashing it as it was pinned and waiting to cross the Potomac. This conservative choice is blamed for extending the war another 3 years. McClellan was later replace by a succession of Generals as Lincoln searched for someone to give him the victories he needed.
Lee was trained at West Point and all these men knew one another before the war. They knew their strength and weaknesses. It was a hard decision for Lee, but he loved his Virginia State, and when asked to lead he could not say no. For Lee this war was about States rights. Their right to make their own decisions. The Slavery issue was the point of contention.
Buchanan was the President prior to Lincoln. He was a Northerner who believed in states rights being more powerful than the Federal Government. He also believed in Slavery. He got elected because he was in Europe traveling during the debates. He was an unknown entity and thus the Polarised North and South both thought him acceptable. Once in office he tried to pass laws to expand the slave trade into the Northern states. When the debates occurred over the states rights, his opinion was the federal government could not force issues, but a state also did not have the right to leave the union either. He felt his hands were tied and as a result did nothing. He did not calm the waters, and his preferences only fed the flames for the North.
The South had made it clear that if Lincoln, whose views on slavery were very clear, became President they would leave the union. It was within days of the inauguration, that the first southern states announced their succession.
So the groundwork was laid for the Civil War. For the south it is still as if it were a recent thing rather than over 145 years ago. The Ranger who spoke to us of the battle at Antietam became a Ranger of this Park because his Great Great Great Grandfather lost his life on this battle field. He told of the battle of the cornfields that started the day. The fields of uncut corn that September 17 day, 1861, would have been higher than the soldiers. By the end of the day the fields looked as if they had been cut with a scythe.
Who had the tops of the rolling hills was crucial with the placements of the batteries. One farm was burned so snipers would not be able to use the roofs. The boys, feeling the heat wonder about the heavy wool uniforms the soldiers on both sides wore. I told them to feel the corn leaves. The sharp edges cut our skin. Without that heavy wool, the soldiers would have been sliced by the edges of the stalks. Angled batteries were the best. If you lined up right in fron you could over shoot or under shoot the line. An angled attack never missed.
A good soldier took 30 seconds to load his rifle. It had a long barrel and was awkward. A man would be exposed while doing it. You can almost hear the screams and rifle shots along with cannon roars. In the corn fields it was hand to hand.
Meanwhile at the bridge it was a duck shoot. After the battle the men at the bridge that had fallen where buried right where they fell against the stone wall used to shelter them. Later they were dug up and moved to a cemetery , perhaps Gettysburg.
There was a cemetery at Antietam, but it was a farm cemetery. Full of families of the farms in the area. Surrounded by a stone wall and big trees to shade the graves, it was a peaceful location on the top of a hill with a view of the whole area. The families had all evacuated prior to the battle. I can't imagine what it was like to come back to the carnage and smell. To have to participate in the clean up and burial of the bodies and horses.
Tom points out a deer crossing a field on the next hill. You can see his antlers above the tall grass. The area probably hasn't changed that much in 145 years. We are driving the battle field area in a car. The heat is over 80 degrees. The soldiers had to walk these distances, or run them, shooting as they went.
I asked Tom what happened to the rule of law? Why couldn't this have been resolved in court, rather than take such aggressive action right away. The courts did not have the precedents that they do now, was his reply. They did not have the trust or strength to make rulings that would stand. Our country was not quite 100 years old yet. Communication was slow, and so was Justice. Lewis and Clark had only crossed America 50 years earlier. The Oregon Trail was in progress.
There was no train connection crossing America yet. That construction started in 1863 and wasn't finished until 1869. There was a wire for the battle fields, but it could be cut or even tapped into for listening. By 1862, the north had encoded Morris code, so their correspondence couldn't be listened in. Foot soldiers and horses brought instructions to the battle fields. An interception of any missive could change the course of the battle.
We spent hours wondering the battle fields until our stomachs called. We had dinner in the air conditioned restaurant across from the hotel. The boys and I swam in the pool and hung out in the barely hot hot tub for the evening.
We met another family at the pool whose sixteen year old daughter was in a softball tournament. They had driven 8 hours from New York to participate. College recruiters would be watching. I think about that eight hour drive and pat myself on the back that we took the two hour and thirty minute train, plus a two hour drive in the rental car.
The drive had not been too bad. We had passed Oriole stadium on our way out of Baltimore. It had been rush hour, but that was about it for the traffic once we got on the freeway.
Tomorrow we drive to Gettysburg for our reenactment.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Train to Baltimore
Pen station is way up town. A good 35 to 40 minute drive at least. It is in the bowels of Madison square garden and many subways converge as well as Amtrak. There is a waiting area cordoned off for ticketed passengers in the center area. Around the outside of the circular concourse are lots of tourist shops to spend money. We are an hour early and there is no security check for luggage so I take the boys browsing the shops. Tom sits with the luggage content now that we are here and not late. We buy snacks. The shirts that say I heart New York on the street are only $3. At Pen station they are $12. But we have to get them, its our last chance this trip. We are now intrepid tourists and liking spending our money on souvenirs. The boys have had a blast.
I have been giving them $20 a day to spend, then I supplement if I think the item they want is really cool also. Half the souvenir T-shirts are presents I purchased for the boys. I brought $1000. Tom brought $1000. Between us I think we have it all covered. We did the credit card for the big dinners out with Jen, but even that was reasonable with so many people.
I bought with Trevor's help at least 5 t-shirts from New York.
After Ellis Island we had been walking through Battery Park when, the boys spotted a fountain. Tom was stuck in the crowd on the boat unloading still. I told Jen to take the kids to go check out the fountain. I forgot to tell the boys not to get wet. I swear it was less than two minutes before we joined them, the boys were soaked. They had gone through the spray of the fountain to cool off and were wet through. Jen says they will dry quickly so we continue on with out too much reprimand.
I read a street artist sign that said $5 cartoon facial drawings. $5 is a small amount. I paid $15 for Trevor's at our local fair at home last year. I have all the kids done. Cole Sebastian Trevor and Riley. Two artists do it, each doing a different child. The woman that did Sebastian and Riley was pretty good, Riley looked older with his mustache. He loved it. The man who did Trevor made him a good 45 pounds lighter, with a narrow face and caught a wicked gleam in Trevor's eyes I have not seen before. Jen said Cole's picture was of a cute baby but not hers. It was fun though.
While they were getting the drawings done I went up to the t shirt vendor and bought them all dry shirts. We were definitely into the tourist thing. At least the top half of the boys were dry. Trevor's new shoes were soaked and would take days to dry. Riley was in rubber flip flops and quite comfortable. Jen had looked a little sheepish when she saw we had not wanted the boys to get wet. but barring any verbal words to not get wet, the boys had been fast to take advantage. Albert had had to work that day so he missed out entirely on our adventures. We had gone out to the Indian restaurant from Battery Street.
Here we were at the train depot with more souvenir shops. We wondered around. Trevor wanted a shot glass as he is now collecting them, he tells me. He says when he is 21 he will throw a big party using them. I think he took Animal House too much to heart. I do find a wheeled pull cart for $25 that will allow us to stack all the duffels and pull them rather than carry them everywhere. Tom says that was a great buy, brilliant in fact. If only we had listened to him in the first place and done our wheeled luggage..
Our train number is called and we join the masses waiting to take the escalator down to the designated track. We get separated from Tom in the crowd since he is pulling the stack of duffels on our new wheeled carrier. Once on the platform I walk all the way down looking for the Cafe car. A little trick I have learned is the best car is the one right next to the Cafe car. I see everyone else getting aboard all the cars as we pass them. Tom is soon visible to me through the crowds. He signals for me to get on but I wave back and keep walking. towards the front of the train I finally see the cafe. A train conductor is standing there. I check with him about coach cars ahead. He says there are two more. That is where I jump on. Just in front of the cafe car. Leaves all the plebeians behind us and the comfort of snacks conveniently located.
Tom thinks it is fantastic that they serve beer. He spends most of the trip in the Cafe car at a table looking out the window. The train seats are spacious and have power plugs for computers and cell phones. I did make the mistake of choosing seats with a partial wall so our view was somewhat obstructed out the windows. But between the cafe car and our seat and just being able to get up and walk around, everyone agreed this is the way to travel. Riley wants us to take the train to Utah to visit friends. I'll check it out. He also wants us to take the train home but we explained a couple of hours is fun, days, not so fun.
$284 was the cost. It was $50 more than I originally thought, because I waited to book until the week we left for New York. A car would have taken us three times longer 6 hours instead of 2. It was also almost $100 a day. Tom would have not been able to enjoy it, having to drive. It was one of the best decisions we made, taking the train out of New York.
We got off in Baltimore. Tom said he wanted to take the boys to the water front. That it was supposed to be really cool. A glitch occurred in that our car reservations were not for this train station, but the one at the airport. It is a problem when booking with 1-800, they often don't know the area and give wrong information. I get mad at the Hertz company. tom gets us a cab to go in to a Hertz office nearby and just get it done. Turns out the office is only two blocks from the wharf. We rent the car and leave it there so we don't have to pay for parking while we see the sights of Baltimore. I shouldn't have even lost my temper as it turned out all that much easier.
There are several historic ships and a sub moored in the inner bay for visitors. We toured the USS Constellation. That was really fascinating. It was both a lot bigger and then smaller than I thought a revolutionary ship would be. it fought both in the war and the slave trade. Three decks, we were able to see every inch of it. I had to duck for the ceilings which were about 6 feet. But I reminded the boys 5 foot 6 was a man's normal height.
Only the captain had his own bathroom which was a wooden board with a hole in it in his closet. Everyone else just had to hang out over the ocean or use a bucket that got dumped later.
We had dinner on the second story of the mall. On a deck overlooking the inner bay. Across from us was the dirt fort that would have defended Baltimore if Fort McDonald had not held against the British. It was a delightful blend of history and the modern age with the ships the fort and the shopping mall. I asked what else there was to see,. Tom said that's about all Baltimore has to offer. The navel base and school is outside of town.
We got the car and headed to Hagerstown where we had reservations at a holiday inn express. They give children under 12 free meals. Turns out it was complimentary for all of us. The hot tub was not hot but other than that we loved the accommodations. Trevor even had a hide a bed so the boys didn't fight over sleeping together. It was no problem finding the place either and there was a restaurant with a sports bar across the parking lot for Tom to unwind.
Tomorrow will be the battle of Antietam after a complimentary breakfast from the hotel. We had even seen the signs on the freeway so we knew where we would be going.
New York last day
Jen had received a project offer from work. She needed to respond and accept before we left the house. Work is work, you don't turn down opportunities and this was a good one. We had also slept in later. Trevor had a load of laundry that needed to be dealt with. So we didn't get out of the house until after 11:00 am. We would need to be back by 3:00 pm for the party. Sebastian's mom had been really generous letting Sebastian hang with us the whole trip. But she needed him back for his birthday party.
So we rushed. Jen figured we had just enough time to do an hour and a half of museum. We walked fast to get there, once off the subway. It was worth it. We did not have time to tour the nuclear sub, because the line for that was really long, but we did get to see the concord jet. I was surprised at how small it was. Just like the airlines we had flown. It didn't have a first class and the seats were pretty packed in. I had always thought it was a glamorous plane. But really it was all about saving time for business men.
We were able to go up on the flight deck of the Intrepid and see the view that the captain would see. I noted with interest the number of telephones that lined the walls. Riley told me he circumvented a rope and went into the bowels of the ship to the quarters below. I know I saw the officers quarters on my way out so I am unsure whether that is what he meant or if he really did see more. I let the boys explore with the agreement to meet back at a specific time. Trevor is the only one without a cell.
Trevor does a flight simulator and loves it. In the shade of the ship we eat a quick PB and J. Then we have to head back at a hustle to get Sebastian home. We are up by Time square so I ask if we can go that subway route. Jen says if we hurry. Hurry is the operative word. Trevor is pushing the stroller with Cole over the rough sidewalks of New York. Jen tells him to be cautious. Cole is not strapped in, just sitting. Trevor moments after told to be cautious hits a rut and flips Cole out onto the sidewalk. Cole is scraped up and upset. Trevor is mortified and sheepish. I had been racing ahead of them all and missed the action. Riley runs after me to bring me back where I had been waiting at the light at the end of the block. So much for rushing.
Jen is carring Cole now in her arms. I suggest a taxi. One pulls over that will hold us all. But once we are loaded he tells us he is almost off duty and will not drive out to Brooklyn. Jen is pissed and tells him that is illegal, but she also understands. She explains to me the cabs are shared and run 24 hours a day. The driver turns the cab over to the next driver at a specific time. He is not supposed to be late, because it bites into someone Else's pay check then. So we pile out, and continue walking. We reach Time square which turns out to be only two more blocks anyway.
I tell the boys to take ten seconds and look around. It has now become a walking mall with big screens on the corner of major building, bill boards are every where. They haven't figured out the new traffic pattern so you see cars periodically pop up and quickly turn down the next street as directed by police. I love it as a walking mall. But we cant stay and shop, we have to get Sebastian to his birthday party. We head down to the subway
Sebastian's mom's stop is short of Jen's. He hops off the train early to get home in time. I am impressed as he leaves by himself. He has a cell and Jen gets a text when he reaches his mom's house. He is about 20 minutes late. We get home to Jen's place to get Tom and Albert. We are going to make two trips in the car to the park for the party, in order to get everyone there. The boys go first.
Their timing is perfect. They arrive at the park just in time to help Sebastian and his mom carry all the picnic stuff to the picnic sight. It makes up for Sebastian being late. We get to meet other parents. One couple, the man is a writer who has just interviewed Cal Ripkin. He does freelance which doesn't pay that well he says. We are impressed though. Any one interviewing Cal Ripkin has to be pretty good. His wife is a science teacher, elementary level. I laugh. Tom's dream is to teach and write. We have a lovely time.
Trevor has a moment though. The boys are off having a water balloon fight. Trevor comes back in tears. Another little boy has gotten carried away and kicked Trevor in the "balls". Trevor has come to the parents for intervention. Albert gets up to go check things out. Trevor recovers from his funk. Tom would have preferred Trevor to defend himself. He out weighed the boy by 60 pounds, but I am proud of Trevor for stepping back. He did not want to get in a fight with one of Sebastian's' friends. Jen says this is a new boy. The mom arrives, she doesn't know anyone and is very pleasant. I get the impression there is no father figure. I think Trevor made a good choice.
I play with the little children. The adults sneak wine and beer out of the cooler into glasses. The police are 20 yards away on the street. They turn a blind eye. If we behave and are not blatant about it, they don't mind. In the heat I pour myself a water bottle of wine. I feel it hit my system. the heat really saps the fluids. It makes you want to drink lots of liquid refreshment. Pizza arrives with Sebastion's step dad. Presents are opened. Riley has bought a model of the intrepid for Sebastian. Trevor gave him a Lego set he had admired while with him. Tom and I gave him gift book store cards. Tom recommends using the gift cards soon as the stocks have been losing money.
Tom has been watching the news. Usually we have to get up early to hear the opening of the market. Now Tom can sleep in and still make the opening. But we don't see bloomburg or Europe because we are already asleep in bed at night.
The party ends and the kids go home. Tomorrow we catch the train for Baltimore. Jen has called a town car to pick us up in the morning.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Rules of blogging
We did have some news while away. On a sad note my sister's fiance died of a massive heart attack on fourth of July. He and Tory were listening to music at a concert at the beach when he just fell over. Honestly, it was probably the way he would want to go. The man loved music and a quick exit is the easiest escape.
My sister was there though to witness the half hour of CPR to try and revive him unsuccessfully. It has been devastating for her. He has been in her life for 5 years now. He was a great support to her and her children. They were to be married August 14th of this year. He will be missed.
Meanwhile on the other side of the family, my mother in law's house caught fire. Some damage, but they were able to contain it to just an outside wall and a deck with covered porch. The fire men came and cut holes to make sure the fire was fully out and not smoldering anywhere. It was quite the adventure. Worst of it was that while my sister in law was hosing down the fire and yelling for everyone to get out of the house, my mother in law stood in her living room with her walking cane and watched through the window. Houses can go very quickly. They were lucky my sister in law saw the the flames right away.
Life is not dull.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Day two NY
Those are our goals for today. Jen has lived in New York now since she came out to attend Sarah Lawrence College and become a drama major in the big city. She is a New Yorker now, who vacations on the West Coast. Packing a back pack of PB and J sandwiches she puts 2 year old Cole in his stroller and heads out the door of the apartment. Catch the two doored elevator, we go out the basement this time. It has a ramp for the stroller to get outside. We stop at the local mini mart to pick up cold water bottles. The teller is an Indian woman who's children go to the same school as Sebastian. Jen and she converse about school for a moment. Then we head down the street to the subway.
Normally I could never get Tom to take the subway. He remembers the era, pre Gulianni, when subways in America were just not safe. He does not like going below ground, but Jen is in the lead, so he hands himself over into her care with good spirit, if only slightly tense. We buy a $50 subway card for all of us. It turns out each use though is limited to 4 people at a time. The card stops working at Jen and Tom. Jen doesn't even blink. Sebastian walks around to the emergency gate and opens the cage style door. Alarms ring out loudly. Jen pushes the stroller through with Cole and Tom.
She says the stroller doesn't fit the turn styles anyway. Its a poor design. We do this routine every time we hit a turn style. Once there is even a man in the booth. He turns off the alarm for Jen's illegal entry. Jen tells us this is normal. The system has flaws and one of the biggest is it is not stroller or handicap friendly at most stations. So everyone just circumvents the system as needed. She is not the only one we see set off the alarms while we are underground. She says some stations have permanently disabled the alarms, as they are really useless noise.
We switch trains underground and are swiftly at the end of Manhattan, near Battery Park. We stop and see the construction at the World Trade Center as it is still called locally. It is a construction sight still, The new tower is barely begun. Sebastian says last time he was down there it was still in clean up mode. We walk through a beautiful sky scraper nearby that has a second story viewing area. You can look down on the pit and the cranes to see the progress. On the other side of this building is the Battery park walk. It is a paved park that runs along the water for miles. At one end you can catch the fairies to Ellis Island.
Tom and I admire the real estate along the walkway. Jen tells us after 9/11 everyone abandoned the water front. You could get homes really cheaply, but if you did, the air quality was so poor that many people came down with respiratory ailments. She is content with her home out in Brooklyn a little off the fray of the mega wealthy.
We reach our destination of the ferries. The line is long, blocks long. Jen and Tom go to buy tickets in the ticket line while I hold our spot in the line for ticket holders. We have to go through security check these days before getting on the fairy. The day has gotten hotter, so the boys go to sit in the shade. I have a big sun hat so I don't mind standing in the sun. It is around noon.
When we reach the security check area the line splits to give you the illusion that you are a lot closer to the end. We have to unload the sleeping Cole from his stroller so they can check it thoroughly. I hold Cole. He goes right back in and back to sleep immediately. We got lucky on that one.
Cole has the tendency to wake up angry and scream inconsolably. Jen's last trip home was a nightmare as the woman sitting next to her on the plane was as unforgiving as Cole. The woman Barraged her with criticism over what a horrible parent she was for not being able to keep her child happy and quiet. After the flight the man behind Jen apologized for the woman's behavior. Cole is just one of those kids that wakes up cranky all the time. But he doesn't complain at any other time. He is a great family participant once fully awake. So the transfer out and back in to the stroller without disturbing his nap was a blessing.
I had to pass through the medal detector screen three times before they finally cleared me. I figure it was my titanium joint in my finger that kept setting it off. They were as thorough as the airport. Though they did let us keep our water bottles. In this 90 degree heat, I would hope so. The ride was delightful even if the fairy was packed. On the water it was much more pleasant than being in the city on a hot day. We hauled the sleeping Cole in his stroller all the way to the top for the outside view. I grabbed one end and Jen had the other for the first floor. I handed my end over to Trevor for the next flight of stairs. Jen said afterwards though she would stay on the first floor with the stroller for the other stages of the ferry rides.
Liberty is huge. She is much more impressive in person. 350 feet tall. Her sandled feet are as big as a minivan. You can't get that perspective except in person. We did not go in , but just walked the island. We did hit the gift shop and have a family picture taken by a professional photographer for an expensive price. But I like the guarantee that you get a good family shot at least once on the vacation.
What the photo did show me was my sun hat looked dorky, I was fat and my clothes are not becoming. Tom said he would take me shopping and for me not to buy my own clothes without him. I am looking forward to it.
when we went to catch the next leg of the trip, at the last minute we remembered to pick up the pictures Tom and I ran back to the gift shop. Jen loaded with the boys. Tom and I missed the fairy. At least we knew we were all going to the same place. We tried to cajole the guard into squeezing us on, but she just said our children should not have loaded without us. So we sat in the shade and waited for the next fairy which come every 20 minutes.
Ellis Island gave us goose bumps. Jen was waiting in her own shade for us when we arrived. The building is both larger than I thought and smaller as you think of all the people that came through its doors. You could hear other tourists speaking as many languages as you could name also checking out the place where so many from all over the world had been processed and accepted or rejected. Only 1% failed to pass.
There was a contagious eye disease that was an automatic reject. For a quick medical exam, pass angers didn't know this, but doctors stood at the top of the flight of marble stairs that reached the second story of the extremely tall ceilinged building. It was the first stage of the waiting line off the boat. The doctors watched to see how you walked. If you could do the flight of stairs then odds were that you were healthy and well. If you struggled with the stairs you were pulled into another line for further inspection. It was a quick and easy health check up.
The museum reeks of history. After immigration changed to visas, the building was used as a hospital in WWI and a jail in WWII. It had worn out its use by 1954 and needed help. It had been vandalized and anything of worth had been stripped, from windows to furniture. Ronald Reagan hired Lee Iaccoca to raise private funds to save the facility from complete loss. Now it stands as a reminder of a time when we were expanding and wanted and needed the riffraff of the world.
The bravery of these people, who didn't have two cents to rub together, to jump on a crowded boat in primitive conditions, travel to a country where they don't speak the language, to accept being poked and prodded like cattle, in order to have just a glimmer of hope that life could be better than where they came from. If you have ever traveled to a foreign country and thought about what you would do if you lost your wallet, that is only a fraction of the stress these people where willing to endure. I can barely get Tom to travel with the family to visit my sister let alone a foreign country.
We were hungry by the time we got back to Battery Park. The restaurant Jen wanted to take us to was in Little India in North Manhattan. I had asked Jen for Ethnic and something really New York. I could see she was enjoying our walk. Once we got off the subway train onto 45th and 6th, we were definitely in the New York of the immigrants. We walked down a street with tattoo parlors and little tourist shops every 10 feet. There were restaurants with steps down from the sidewalk and restaurants with steps up from the sidewalk, right on top of each other. Men stood at the doorways calling out to us trying to get us to pick their restaurant to have a meal. We rounded a corner and Jen took us up to the one of her choice.
It was hysterical. The place was eight feet wide, with narrow tables running down both sides. The restaurant ended 30 feet in the back. A star bucks coffee shop is twice as big. Red shiny wall paper covered the walls and all the chairs were red. I could barely squeeze into mine behind the table. From the ceiling hung strands of lights. So many lights, you could not see how high the ceiling really was. The lights were red and some were white. Many were chili pepper lights. If you looked closely you could see an occasional sea shell chandelier hanging in the lights. The waiter had an Indian accent as did the matrade and the bus boy. It was definitely ethnic. We all looked around the place with glee. It was just the experience I wanted my boys to have. Something way out of their comfort box, but perfectly safe. Hor douvers arrived, everything was fried. I could not identify what they served us but I enjoyed it. Sometimes it is best not to ask but just try it.
Tom told the waiter to choose for him, something medium spicy beef. What came was a delectable dish rich in flavor. I ordered the most staid dish of all. I love curried chicken and never get to have it at home so that is what I ordered. It was delicious. The boys liked the dishes they ordered. Trevor had a lamb dish that I thought was scrumptious. We passed around bites so everyone could try each others. Cole and Sebastian were old hands at eating out so they were enjoying our reactions. Cole had a tomato soup that he enjoyed smearing around and decorating his white place mat. But he also ate well. The deep ceramic spoon almost stumped him as it was a little difficult for him to get into his mouth. I helped him change to a regular spoon so he could eat more and spill less.
The whole atmosphere was wonderful. It felt exotic. The food was great. Jen said when friends say they want ethnic this is where she often takes people since it is just a little over the top exotic decoration and fun.
We headed home after dinner, exhausted from a long day of being tourists. The kids showered first before bed. Jen said adults get morning showers, kids shower at night. Otherwise there is a Juggernaut in the bathroom in the mornings. After everyone was finished though I did slip into the shower for a quick rinse of the city dirt. Jen said she used to bath three times a day when she first moved to New York, because of the dirt and sweat of the city.
We slept soundly with plans for our last day in New York percolating in our brains.
First day NY
The building is a 5 story, 1960s brick apartment building across from a cemetery. It makes the street prettier to have the cemetery with its green trees. Everyone in her family is still asleep. She suggests going out to breakfast, but we opt to wait for everyone to wake up. The problem with that decision is then we all have that let down after travel and within the hour we are asleep also.
Tom crashes on the couch and I crawl into my older nephew's loft bed, hoping it will hold my weight as it creaks when I roll over. I have no idea where my boys slept. I wake hours later when I hear my little nephew 's voice and my boys. Everyone has settled in nicely.
The apartment is more spacious than we anticipated. It has a long kitchen, a wide entry, a large living room. The biggest bedroom has been split in two for the boys so they each have a room, making it a three bedroom apartment. It only has one bathroom though. There is a bathroom in the basement near the laundry room, to be used as back up, if someone can absolutely not wait their turn.
The floors are hard wood, beautiful rugs have been laid to muffle the sound of feet in courtesy for the apartment below. A lot of young families like Jens mingle with older retirees as residents. The building is really two buildings with duplicate facilities in each tower. That way if the laundry is busy, you can slip over to the laundry next door. Its a little hike, but available as needed. Water and electric are included in the monthly HOAs. There is parking in the building but only for 60 cars. The wait list is 7 years.
The building is dated with black speckled linoleum hall ways and a set of old style elevators with double doors. You look through a window and when the elevator arrives on your floor you open the outer door manually. Once in the elevator the outer door swings shut then the inner door closes. It is vintage 1960's with a lot of character. The location is easy with a subway line just 2 blocks away.
Jen's plan was to give us all a restful day. She has done the red eye herself. Albert, her husband, is in a children's play that afternoon in Prospect park. He is performing in A Midsummer Night's Dream. Jen wants to take us on the lake in paddle boats. Show us how an urban city family has play time. Tom opts to watch TV and relax. We have a delightful day at the park.
The play is held on a small stage in a new playground. The ground has been tiled with rubber so it is comfortable and safe. The play is geared toward the young audience with puppets for Puck and the fairy. Albert plays one of the human actors and a portion of Puck's lines. Riley follows along and laughs. I am not sure Trevor got it all. there were no mikes so you had to listen carefully.
My little nephew got board so Jen went to save a spot in line for the paddle boats. The boys love paddle boats and both want to be with my older nephew, Sebastian. He is a year younger and years more experienced with living in the big city. I climb into another boat with Jen. I figure maybe ten minutes before we will have to switch.
I don't think it was even that long before I hear Trevor's voice carrying across the water. "Riley I get to steer." I tell the boys not to yell and paddle with Jen in their direction. I try to distract by suggesting a race. They start out fine, but Riley stops peddling shortly and we leave them far behind arguing. I suggest a mid water switch. They agree. Riley climbs in with Jen. I climb in with Trevor and Sebastian. I start peddling, but it is a hot afternoon, I suggest switching with Trevor. He hesitantly agrees. He doesn't want to peddle either. Sebastian is the only one doing any work. We are not going anywhere fast. Jen and Riley are off exploring the lake with little nephew Cole.
I dangle my feet over the side of the boat into the murky green water, saying how good it feels. Sebastian tells me I should not put my feet in the water. There are snapping turtles which might bite. Geese float by. Sebastian warns me they might bite. A swan floats by and Sebastian tells me there used to be two swans but this one killed the other one a few weeks ago in a territorial war. The swan murder made the local newspaper.
Half way through the one hour rental, Jen pulls out PB and Js and juice boxes and cheese. We eat while we float. After forty five minutes of leisurely paddling and floating, we head back to the beach to return the boats. Jen is glowing over the success of our first day in New York. She had given us a feel and flavor of what her life is like living in the city in an apartment. She had wanted to show us that though her home was 1/3 the size of ours, she still had a lovely quality of life and so much entertainment available.
Standing in line waiting for our return is a Jewish family in traditional garb. The men have long curls and full beards, dressed all in black with the strings dangling below their black vests. Behind them a black family that isn't speaking English waits their turn. All around us in the park you can hear various languages.
In the car, Jen pointed out the baseball fields where Sebastian plays, and the schools he and his family attend. He has to take public transport to school and has from an early age. He has his own transit card.
Sebastian helps push the stroller or runs ahead, knowing where we are going at all times and aware of his surroundings. Trevor and Riley try to look alert, but there are people walking the sidewalks in every direction. they inevitably block someone or bump someone trying to get out of the way. When Tom is with us, he is always telling one of us to move out of the way or grabbing the boys to physically move them out of the way.
We go out to dinner to a bar/restaurant in Jen's old neighborhood. It is family friendly. Jen says that all the restaurants are family friendly since people socialize not in their small apartments , but in restaurants. We do have too many people for the car so Albert puts Cole on the bike and peddles to the restaurant. That man is buff. We pass him going up hill with Cole in the seat behind him. He makes it look easy. Jen says she wont do that hill with Cole on the bike. Trevor has to hide, ducked down in the back, as we are still short one seat, but the restaurant is not far, just two miles.
This particular restaurant is a classic. Burgers and beer kind of joint, with a long bar and mirrors behind the bar, with shelves of boozes. The air conditioner is on but the doors, a full wall of glass, have been pushed open allowing the hot air outside to enter. The sweat drips down my spine. I down a cold ice tea then order a cocktail. Tom orders his Bud light.
I tell Jen the next night I want us to experience something ethnic. I don't care if it is Chinese or Indian or Thia or what ever. I just know I want the boys to have an adventure dinner, we are in New York. We can get burgers anywhere. I know she picked this restaurant to make Tom and the boys comfortable and he was. It was right in his comfort level, burgers and beer in a bar. She says she has just the place for tomorrow. Her eyes twinkle. Tomorrow night you want ethnic, we are going Indian. Tom cringes and shrugs. He is along for the ride. Riley looks a little concerned also. Trevor is ready to try anything. Though they all order normal fair this night. Riley orders the chicken club on white bread. Trevor gets a burger and fries. Tom orders the meatloaf per Jen's recommendation. I order the salmon. It is way too hot for me to order a really heavy meal, even though there were some great pastas listed.
There was an area in a back room with an arcade and mini pool table for children so parents could even hang out and stay longer with their children entertained. It was a good first day. We got a flavor of New York living. When we got back to the apartment, Sebastian in the back this time, we made our sleeping arrangements.
Tom and I slept across from each other on the leather couches in the living room. I got the couch under the window air conditioner. It was quite comfortable. The boys slept in Sebastian's room until Riley complained Trevor was too close and cramping his space. Tom moved Trevor out with us on the floor. We could get him up for the bathroom easier that way also. I slept soundly.